I finally finished my first Mortmain dress this weekend. I cut out the pieces late last year but haven't made the time since then to actually make it.
I chose a linen/silk mix, partly because I love the feel of it (almost like a wild silk) and partly because I was able to pick it up cheaply, so if it went horribly wrong I wouldn't have wasted too much money.
Pretty much as soon as I started sewing up the pieces I realised that I had cut out the size based on my size before I had my operation and that meant that it probably wouldn't fit me now. Which was pretty depressing.
I wasn't sure whether to finish it or to just go ahead and cut out the next size up, but figured that I might as well you this as the muslin. Plus I was hoping that maybe I hadn't put on quite as much weight as I thought I had!
The dress itself was pretty straight forward to make. The pattern says that it's for an ambitious beginner and I think that's a fair description. But as well as a comprehensive instruction booklet there's also extra advice on their website and online in general if you google Mortmain, so even if you're not feeling overly ambitious I think it's worth a go.
The only part that I didn't enjoy was putting in the zip. The pattern uses a method that I haven't tried before (it's an exposed zip) and to be honest I didn't really like it. But I think that's more because I was tired and my normally reliable machine didn't like the actual zip I was using, rather than it being a problem with the actual method.
I have to say that although I quite like the detail of an exposed zip, I'm not sure I like it enough to do it again and will probably just fit a normal one next time.
I've been worried that the box pleats in the skirt would be unflattering - my hips are broad- and I do think that in the end the dress does make me look even hippier than normal. But I'm hoping that that's in part because it's a size too small.
I'm going to give this another go in the next size up, with some beautiful green fabric that I've been showing off all over Instagram, in the hopes that the next size up will look a lot better on me. I'm also going to make a couple of adjustments to the darts ( I wish my boobs were that high up!) and lengthen the skirt a little, but that's it.
I would definitely recommend giving the Mortmain a go, even if you've never sewn a dress before. The pattern is comprehensive and easy to follow without assuming too much prior knowledge, and can certainly be made up in a weekend.
Next up I'm going to have a go at a vintage pattern that I've wanted to make for years, but have been too scared to try! Plus I bought some amazing green wool (green's the colour for me at the moment) to make yet another Merchant & Mills Top 64!